Tonight is Nochebuena (Christmas Eve). Several of our (Gringo) neighbors have left for points Norte visiting family, and the others that are here are off at parties tonight. This evening is huge in Mexico. There is tradition related to the Holiday that says that in order to ward off evil spirits for the coming year you must stay up until sunrise - if you sleep you risk being taken. I don't think it is related to the Catholic Church... Much of what is done during what we call the Christmas season is a mish-mash here of various traditions that incorporate Catholicism and practices that date back to Mayan customs. But, enough about that - we have been invited to come to the Mexican Posada here on the grounds of Rancho el Rosario! For years I have read about how generous the Mexicans are in sharing their celebrations with Gringos. One of the problems with this is that everything they do starts way later than our parties do. I think that comida (dinner) is at 9pm - we finished eating at 7:30 - so we can't really show up to party until an hour later. That's our bedtime normally, but if it's gonna get loud at that point, we might as well join them, right? I am determined to make a brief showing and hopefully get some photos. We have commitments tomorrow so we can't overdo tonight...

This photo is of a tree decorated with dried citrus slices in a restaurant lobby - fabulous! And the two other photos, above and below, are of our neighbors' decorations. I have to covet theirs as I have none this year. As I'm finishing this post up it is Christmas day and we did go to the posada last night and drank a few shots of Tequila. They had a big bonfire which is always part of the party on Nochebuena. Unfortunately, it made it too hard to get decent photos with the bonfire overpowering any chance of getting detail of the peoples' faces, etc. We were generously introduced to the extended family that was there including one young man who is studying to be a veterinarian in Guadalajara. He was a younger brother of one of the staff - very proud to let us know he has only one year of study left! The party was quite low key, as there were a bunch of little kids there. Today was spent at a wonderful brunch for several hours and followed by a long Skype conversation with our kids and their partners back home.

More about life at Rancho el Rosario. First photo is our new Best Friend. Her name is Leika, and she is loosely owned by a couple of the families (staff) who live within the walls in apartments at the rear of the compound. She is an unexpected delight here. We used to breed and show dogs, and although this one probably doesn't have a pedigree, she is really healthy and a nice representation of her breed - and she has a great temperament. It will be hard to leave her behind when we return to Oregon next Spring. Dogs in this area are revered above all other animals and they are everywhere. Many people have 2 or 3. Here at "the ranch" they have about 7... The other side of this is that many wander homeless and abandoned and end up in the myriad of adoption shelters.

In addition to the dogs, we have a "family" of chickens. Here's the king of the roost. The dogs do act as security, however they also get worked up over who knows what, and carry on at night - which has been the hardest thing to adjust to. Everywhere we have stayed there have been trade-offs. On the grounds here there are citrus trees - at least three different varieties of oranges, limes and a Meyer lemon tree. What a treat that's been!

Outside of the ranch, life goes on. Many things are surprisingly like the way we do them up North. For example, they are trying out a new DUI program with checkpoints, breathalizer tests (higher % tolerated here), detention, fines and confiscating vehicles. It has been deemed so effective that the restaurant and bar owners have said they've suffered a 40% loss in business as a result. Parking meters recently added to parts of Chapala have had nothing but controversy since they were installed. The 15 yr (!) contract was arranged by the previous administration, and the current admin is completely opposed to them and refuses to collect fines or prosecute for late payments. Meanwhile, local opposition to the meters has resulted in some vandalizing of the equipment and removing of tickets from vehicles. And ... recently a new social experiment will eventually allow students from 561 primary and 73 secondary schools in Guadalajara to have a say in how municipal funds should be allocated in three general areas: infrastructure, maintenance and public works. This will be accomplished by taking 200

voting machines around to the various schools. Great idea, but remember that Guadalajara is a huge city and this little town has only about 15,000 people.

To the right is a picture of some of the wonderful citrus from our trees!

Our first 3 wks here have been extremely full starting with the Dia de los Muertos celebration (10/31-11/2). For (yet another) look into how seriously people party here, I have a true story: In the middle of the day on Sat. I was waiting outside the bank on a busy street in Chapala. There was a big line-up of cars waiting for the light to change. Finally, 2 or 3 cars were able to get through the intersection and the next car didn't move. Car trouble, right? No. People were honking loudly, and continuously. No response. Closer look at the 20 something driver, alone in the car, shows his head thrown back and eyes closed. My first thought was that he had been shot, but we would've heard that. The local policia came to the window (after someone had actually rammed the guy's car!) and began banging on the window. He suddenly sat up and looked around. He had passed out in the middle of traffic!! The photo in the upper right is a beautiful altar set up to honor a storekeeper's mother who had passed away the weekend before the holiday.

The next photo is an amazing example of the weather we've experienced since we got here. That is a huge rain cloud that gathered above the lake in just that one spot. Hope you can see the column of water in the middle...Within minutes it was over us and dumping torrents of rain which lasted for an hour or so. This was the second time we'd had serious rain so far. It's statistically unheard of here to have measurable rain this late in the year. Although we have a pool here, it just hasn't been warm enough to use it much of the time. We also have get-togethers with our neighbors, weather permitting, for our version of "happy hour". Great group of people here. More about that later, as there are lots of stories to give you insight into living in Ajijic.

We also volunteered at the Feria Maestros del Arte again this year. It too was plagued with heavy rain one of the three days. I/we were so busy during our volunteer stint that I didn't get photos of the amazing artwork and craftsmanship that was there representing all parts of Mexico. Please look at their website in the absence of my photos, at mexicoartshow.com. I also reconnected with my wonderful and talented group of jewelry making friends and "competed" in a challenge called "Opposites Attract" where we were given a few guidelines and limited to two colors usually not paired with each other. The 11 pieces were all very different from each other. Lots of good-natured fun, and it was good being "challenged" to get back into producing jewelry again. Below is another wonderful sunset just the other day as seen from our veranda. This is what it is supposed to be like every day here on Lake Chapala, as the story goes ...

This began to bloom in our backyard in Mexico just before we had to leave to return North for the summer. In Oregon these flowers can only be raised as "hot house" orchids - never outdoors. How beautiful, and they grow so easily there. It is so hard to make the adjustment when we return NOB. During our drive home, we enjoyed upper 80's to low 90's. When we passed into the Mt. Shasta area (northern CA) it began to rain and temps dropped to 60's. In Oregon it was 50 degrees the day we got home.

We knew that we had many responsibilities to take care of right away when we got back, but we had no idea of the unexpected/unplanned events that we were in store for. The largest was a plumbing crisis that ended up costing over $700. The good news is that it could have been thousands if flooring and drywall had to be torn out and replaced along with some pipes. Another random thing that occurred: the  key to our '04 VW Touareg failed about a week after the beginning of the plumbing debacle. Reprogramming and getting a second key: $250. Not having it fail while on the road returning to Oregon: Priceless! For comparison purposes, below is what is growing in our front yard at home. Lovely, but very different!

Gregg is back into his fishing pastime here, and I am trying to secure garden space in our neighborhood. Today, and for the next couple of days, we are at the beach for some clamming. When we get home it is supposed to be 80 degrees for a couple of days! Excellent weather for Oregon this time of year. Unusual, but not unheard of.

Above center and to the right are photos of the place we were able to put a deposit on for next Nov-Mar. The place is beautiful as you can see. It's about half the size of the place we are in this visit -very small - but it has a heated pool and gorgeous outdoor areas that we can use to extend our living space. And...it's completely secure, right on the edge of Lake Chapala and in Ajijic so that we can walk to the tiangus (outdoor market) three blocks away and to a  good-sized conventional market as well.

Tomorrow we head down the road, heading back to Oregon. The weather there has been record-setting at 70-78 degrees lately, but it doesn't beat the 82-87 we have had here lately! Because of the altitude (5000 ft), it's just perfect. We're hoping most people will be at church or entertaining family, while we are driving. Or if they are travelling during Semana Santa (the extended Easter holiday), they should be at their destination, fingers crossed! I will post again soon. Right now we are in packing mode - a fairly major undertaking after six months in our second home in Mexico.

There was a big art show and sale this weekend. It coincides with the annual judged show put on by the Ajijic Society of the Arts. Over 80 artists in all different media had their wares for sale on the plaza on Sunday. The ASA group was established in 1986 and is primarily made up of expats, but also includes some local artists. They support each other but also do good work in the community, including supporting a local children's art training program. They have a small web presence you can check out for examples of just a few of the members' work Last yerajijicart.weebly.com.

Below is a pretty nice photo I took with the phone (some of them turn out!). This is the very old church that borders the plaza area just off to the left of the photo taken here of the sale area. It was built in the 1500's. This town is VERY old.  Lots and lots of history and changes over the years, but for this church - not so much, as you can see.

Our time here is very short now - less than two weeks before we leave for all points north and home. It continues to be very busy for us. We went to a fundraiser for Ninos Incapacitado last week, an  organization that helps fund health care for severely challenged local children whose parents can't afford the medical treatment that they require. Every year they raise thousands of dollars from this event alone, and it's always a lot of fun. It's themed, so some people have fun dressing for whatever that theme might be, and the rest of us enjoy looking at them! This year the theme was "The Orient Express" - and there are a lot of former theater folks here and people who were in various positions in that industry in their former lives. Not to mention that there are two active theater groups here in town, as well as symphony performances from time to time in an actual auditorium built just for that purpose, and last Fall a real cabaret opened downtown called El Piano Rojo which is a sister establishment to one in Puerto Vallarta. We, unfortunately, haven't seen one of the excellent acts that keep getting rave reviews there. But we did see a friend of ours perform there on open mic night recently. That was pretty much fun! Checking back, I see I didn't post about the Mexican National Chili Cook-Off that happened about a month ago.  Last year the weather was dismal for this event, but this year it was great. This event is a fundraiser for Cruz Roja (the local Red Cross presence).  It was fun, but the interest in the competition seems to be waning. A number of the competitors in the two competitions that they promote (chili and margaritas) cancelled at the last minute and left voters with very few to evaluate!

Here comes the parade!

Saddle is as big as he is!

Arrived for the parade!

This group of guys are here for the Carnaval Parade. We are at the staging area. Probably won't do that again. I forget that in Mexico if the parade begins at 10 am it will be an hour more; but it was fun anyway - eventually! What I look forward to each year is the Sayacas, who chase the little boys (see my post from 2/23/12 for a full explanation of this local folk custom). There were 50 or more, dressed up in outrageous costumes to rival the best Halloween get-ups we see NOB (north of the border). The little boys love it. They get all fired up, race around chasing each other just to let off steam until the Sayacas begin the chase. As for the parade, most everything in it is just a bit risque - from pole dancing cross dressers to scantily clad young ladies dancing to the relentless beat of the music piped out of the "floats". A couple of marching bands keep the pace, and lots of beads and confetti is thrown - a nod to Mardi Gras. The confetti is then taken home on/in your clothing, your hair and stuck to your skin. Mucho fun !

Carnaval is huge in the Chapala area, lasting a couple of weeks. I wish that I had better photos of the parade in Ajijic. I took videos, and even those are not great because the IPhone has issues with lighting and detail. I didn't catch the mad scramble at the beginning of the parade when the Sayacas chase the little boys, as I had to duck into a doorway to keep from being trampled! A contingency of Charro (horsemen), young and old, take up the rear to end the parade. Above and below are pictures of very young riders, dressed up in beautiful regalia. It's clear that they take horsemanship   very seriously here. Some of the Charro have taught their horses to "dance", much to the delight of the crowd. But it's early, and the parade will go from one end of town and back again. By the time they get to the plaza in the middle of town some of the horses are overheated (I saw this last year) and I felt very sorry for them...

Young horsewoman

   

This is how they promote the outdoor grilled chicken shop in downtown Ajijic. Notice he is literally dancing in the street? Annoys some of the local drivers (Mexicans), who occasionally swerve towards him...

Because we are outside of town we missed yet another fiesta extraordinaire. On January 20th the patron saint of Ajijic, San Sebastien, was celebrated. A whole day event, I didn't find out about it until too late. There was a huge display of art at the Plaza, a parade with floats and confetti, wonderful local food and drink of all kinds, ending up with live music and street dancing in Centro. Oh well - next year for sure!

As promised, I will share some current information about crime and corruption in the area as reported in the Guadalajara Reporter. As mentioned in a previous post, there's been a substantial increase in local robberies and home invasions in recent months. With the change in administration December 1st on many government levels, criminals have taken advantage of the "grey zone" between the election of new people and the actual taking of office (not to mention the extended time it takes to put anything new into practice here). One new program is having mixed success. A mandate to test all current police officers for competency is a good idea - but the newspaper reported that 33% of Guad. cops failed and have been dismissed as unfit for service. In Jalisco as a whole the number is 35%. The tests include drug tests, lie detector, medical and psych among others. Failing officers, not due to drugs or affiliations with organized crime, are being reassigned to desk jobs when possible. According to stats from the state's Attorney General's office, a staggering 75% of pending crime cases are "shelved" which has the effect of  encouraging criminals to carry on business as usual (thus the huge swell in the number of home robberies in the area - my conclusion).

An example specific to Ajijic was recently in the news. A well known, long established restaurant in the area was abruptly demolished on 1/15. Local folks had lots of questions, as the owner and family were well liked in the area by many long-time residents. As reported by the Guad. Reporter, the owner of the restaurant had been in a legal battle with the owner of the land it was on for over 7 years, with suit after counter suit being filed in court. When all had run its course in the courts the judge asked him to vacate the premises voluntarily (that was in September last year!) and he refused. What we do know is that the part of the property that they were operating on was sitting on a section of land that was public access, and so they never had any legal claim to it. How were they able to continue to operate for so many years? Apparently the owner was paying off the previous judge regularly for that entire time, but when the new judge took office she refused to take the money - end of story.

In spite of all this, we love this place and will continue to return. This part of the world certainly doesn't have a corner on the market of crime and corruption!

As seen from our roof last night, and frequently...

Just like in high school and college, I procrastinate, and now there is so much to write about I don't know where to begin. The holidays as celebrated in the states have come and gone. Family visitors left on Wed. and took the week's fabulous weather with them. Before they arrived we had several days of uncharacteristic chilly weather, including two days of rain! I questioned the locals - what is this rain all about? From some expats that live here, and from my gardener, I was told these are called the "cabanuelas". They are predictors of this coming year's rains for purposes of planning harvest. If you Google the term you will find all kinds of interesting stuff.

Some new friends here have gotten me connected to some neat opportunities. A Writers' Group meets here twice a month, and in the group are all the folks who write for local English publications that we see in print in the area. I went to a meeting with my new friend as sponsor, and it was great fun. There was so much talent in the room - I felt humbled to be included, but at the same time energized, as I think I could do this! If I had only thought to bring down examples of my published stuff... I also am going to begin work with a woman who hosts a network for local women online. The info on their website is in need of an update/clean-up in several areas, and that is my forte. My jewelry group is in high gear as well, with a bunch of newbies on board. All of us who don't feel qualified to produce and sell our jewelry (yet) will have the opportunity to learn from some of the local women who do. Lots of classes are planned for teaching purposes. I can't wait! At the same time Gregg has not been able to pull together a fishing trip. Perhaps in March ...

Things here are the same, yet different, each time we visit. As long as we are "Snowbirds" our experience will change every time we visit. We have have had some really unpleasant experiences this year - including moving in to our supposedly "fully equipped" home in which the TV and dishwasher  didn't work, and there were leaks in two places inside when it rained. In addition there was no iron, salt and pepper shakers, storage containers, mixing bowls, can openers, spare sheets and towels and - in a 2 bd rm house there were only 12 hangers! The 2nd bedroom had only a bed - nothing else. Wow.  Be very careful when finding things online (as we have always done). Ask LOTS of questions and be sure you get answers you are satisfied with. And be prepared to be flexible.

Will post again soon about things going on here. There is always so much.  As well, there is lots to talk about regarding area politics and the daily goings on.